たまには一人でサーフィンを

「ふたりでお茶を」のスピンオフ記事「たまには一人でサーフィンへ」へようこそ。ここは、いつも妻とふたりでの行動が多い僕がたまに一人でサーフィンに行った記録の場所。そして僕が経験した事、感じた事を書く場所。
そして、ここはコンテンツの最下部の小さなアイコンからしか辿り着けない秘密の場所。

５０近くのおじさん初心者サーファーがサーフィンを通じてどのように成長していくのか、はたまた挫折して終了となるのか誰にもわかりませんが、のんびりと長く続く事を願って。
それでは、「たまには一人でサーフィンへ」はじまりはじまり～。

つづく

100 : Surf alone once in a while.

Welcome!

Welcome to "Sometimes I Go Surfing Alone", a spin-off article from "Tea for Two". This is a place to record my occasional solo surfing trips, as my wife and I usually do most of our activities together. This is where I write about my experiences and feelings. And this is a secret place that can only be reached from the small icon at the bottom of the content. Who knows how a nearly 50 year old beginner surfer will grow up through surfing, or if he will end up failing, but I hope it will be a long and leisurely journey. Let's go surfing alone once in a while.
To be continued

23/07/25 : 続ける事　

twitterの方はこまめに更新をしていましたが、今現在はサーフィン99回となりました。次で100回目。あれから週一で海に入っています。今は少しだけ立てる？動作ができるようになって何度もテイクオフの練習をしています。１つできると、また１つ課題ができます。でも、一人海で波待ちをしていると色々な事を考え、それだけも海に来てよかったなと思います。すっかりサーフィンにはまっています。今度はマメに更新しようと思っています。さあ、練習、練習。

I have been updating twitter frequently, but as of now I have surfed 99 times. The next one will be my 100th. I have been in the ocean once a week since then. Can I stand up a little now? When I can do one, I have another challenge. But I think about many things when I am waiting for a wave alone in the ocean, and I am glad that I came to the ocean for that. I am completely addicted to surfing. I'm going to update this page frequently. Now, practice, practice.

23/01/04 : 初すべり

サーフィン30回目。今年最初のサーフィンでした。海に入っている人は僕を含めて５人くらいでした。波はたまに胸くらいまできましたが、今日は体が動かず（お正月に食べ過ぎた？）練習が進みませんでした。しかし、一度だけ波の頂点で滑り出しこんなに景色が高いんだと思った事と、ドルフィンスルーの練習をしていて板が深く潜れるようになってきました。しかし、最近は海で立って波を待って練習していたので、波待ちが不安定で反省。今後は波待ちからの板の扱いも練習もしないとなと反省しました。先は長し、そしてまだ立てず。

30th time surfing. It was the first surf of the year. There were about 5 people in the ocean including me. The waves were sometimes up to chest size, but I couldn't move today (did I eat too much at New Year's?). Practice did not progress. However, once I slipped out at the top of the wave and thought that the view was so high, and I was practicing dolphin throughs so that my board could dive deeper. However, recently I have been practicing by standing in the ocean waiting for waves, so I was unstable waiting for waves, which made me reflect on my practice. I reflected that I need to practice handling the board from waiting for waves in the future as well. Long way to go, and I still can't stand up.

22/11/22 : 材木座海岸と人込み　

サーフィン19回目。お昼前に由比ガ浜に向かうと飯島トンネルから海を見るとびっくりするくらいの人で。由比ガ浜はあきらめて材木座に予定を変更。しかし材木座もかなりの人で。端っこのほうで１時間だけ練習を決意。前回、教えてもらったのと波が大きいおかげで、板がとても走り、立てそうになりました。何度かトライして初めて中腰まで。短い時間でしたが良い練習でした。そして、いつかあの大きな波でもコントロールして立てるようになりたいと思いました。それにしても人が多かった。今回もいい勉強になりました。まずは地道に安全に練習だなと再度思いました。

19th surfing. When I headed to Yuigahama before noon, I was surprised to see the ocean from the Iijima Tunnel with so many people. I gave up on Yuigahama and changed my schedule to Zaimokuza. However, Zaimokuza was also quite crowded. I decided to practice for an hour at the end of the beach. Thanks to what I had learned last time and the big waves, the board ran very well and I could almost stand up. It took me a few tries and for the first time, I was up to my middle back. It was a short but good practice. And I wanted to be able to control and stand up on those big waves someday. Still, there were many people there. It was another good learning experience. I thought again that the first thing to do is to practice steadily and safely.

22/11/18 : 教えてもらう

サーフィン17回目。今日は弟が教えてくれるという事で、夕方から由比ガ浜に。波の見方や乗り方を教えてもらいました。この日の由比ガ浜の波はスープでしたが初心者の僕には十分でした。実際に同じ板でテイクオフの瞬間や重心の位置が見れたのは、とてもよかったです。後、ドルフィンスルーも見せてもらい、これも今後は練習に入れようと思いました。一歩ずつ練習あるのみ。

The 17th time I surfed. Today I went to Yuigahama in the evening because my brother was going to teach me. He taught me how to see and ride the waves. The waves at Yuigahama on this day were soup, but it was enough for me as a beginner. It was great to see the actual take-off moment and center of gravity on the same board. After that, I was also shown the dolphin through, and I thought I would include this in my practice in the future. I will keep practicing step by step.

22/11/12 : 15回目　

サーフィンを初めて毎週のように海に通っています。今日は、ほとんど波がないおかげで土曜でしたがガラガラでした。おかげで、岸近くで何度となく練習ができました。板がショートなので岸辺近くではしっかりとパドリングをして、たまに板が走る感じが嬉しくて。今の所は胸を起こして、板に点で乗る感じにすると視界もよくて走り出す感じがしています。今回、板に正座をして（偶然）岸まで行った時には笑ってしまいました。今日も1時間だけ練習を。いつになったら立てるのだろうか。日々練習は続きます。そんな15回目の練習。

I have been going to the beach every week since I started surfing. Today was a Saturday, but it was a rarified day thanks to almost no waves. Thanks to this, I was able to practice near the shore many times. Since my board is short, I paddled well near the shore and was happy to feel the board run sometimes. So far, I've been feeling that if I keep my chest up and feel like I'm riding the board at a point, I can see better and feel the board start to run. I laughed this time when I sat upright on the board and (accidentally) made it to the shore. Today I practiced for only an hour. I wonder when I will be able to stand up. Practice continues every day. This is the 15th such practice.

22/10/23 : 土日

晴天の土日。土曜日は波がかなり荒れていましたが、これも経験ということで30分だけ材木座海岸で夕方に練習。風も強くオンシェアでしたが細かい波のおかげで何度も練習ができました。そして日曜日に午前中に由比ガ浜へ。日曜日はいつも混んでいるのでなるべく人が少ない場所へ。今回は何度か岸まで寝そべりながら滑る事ができました。そして胸を上げてノーズを下げるとスピードが出る事に気が付きました。でも、癖で下を見ていると突っ込みそうになるので遠くを見るようにして練習を繰り返しました。これで合っているかわかりませんが、なんでも練習して改善。それにしてもサーフィンは楽しい。今回もお約束の１時間の練習でした。最後に、今回は波待ちの際にフォンに足が当たってしまい軽く切り傷をしてしまいました。これも何か安全な方法を考えないといけないなと思いました。

Sunny Saturday and Sunday. On Saturday, the waves were quite rough, but we decided to practice at Zaimokuza beach for 30 minutes in the evening, as it was an experience. The wind was strong and on-shore, but thanks to the fine waves, we were able to practice many times. Then we went to Yuigahama beach in the morning on Sunday. It is always crowded on Sundays, so we went to a place with as few people as possible. This time I was able to skate a few times while lying down to the shore. And I noticed that if I lifted my chest and lowered the nose, I could get more speed. However, I repeated the practice by looking far away from the shore, because I was afraid I would crash into the shore if I looked down as a habit. I don't know if this is right, but everything improves with practice. Still, surfing is fun. Again, we practiced for an hour as promised. Finally, this time my foot hit the fon when I was waiting for a wave and I got a light cut. I had to think of some safe way to do this too.

22/10/10 : 再開　

怪我をしてからやっと完治して今日から由比ガ浜にてサーフィン再開。海のうねりがすごくて、初心者の僕は陸に近い端の方で練習。沢山の波があるおかげで、何度も波の上をパドリングで滑る練習ができました。でも何度繰り返してもなかなかスーッと滑っていかない。たまにフワッとしてスーッと滑るのですが、なかなかコツがつかめない。でも楽しかった。前回、怖い思いをしたので無理せずコツコツと安全に練習をと思いました。いい時間でした。

I finally recovered from my injury and resumed surfing today at Yuhigahama. The ocean swell was so strong that as a beginner, I practiced at the end of the beach near the land. Thanks to the many waves, I was able to practice paddling over the waves many times. But no matter how many times I tried, I couldn't get it to go smoothly. Sometimes I would flutter and glide smoothly, but I couldn't quite get the hang of it. But it was fun. I had a scary experience last time, so I thought I should practice safely and steadily without overdoing it. It was a good time.

22/09/17 : 怪我

9/16は由比ガ浜で練習しました。台風が近いということで、これは僕には波が高いなと思い、そして次の日は波が低めになる材木座にて練習をしました。いつも練習は1時間だけ行うと決めていたので帰ろうと陸に向かう途中で前のめりになりパーリングをしてしまいました。握った板を離してしまい波にもまれました。「やばい」と思った瞬間に足に痛みがフィンで足を切ってしまいました。幸い軽傷でしたがぞっとしました。帰ってパーリング時の対応を練習し、やわらかいフィンもあることを知りました。ウエットスーツも少し切ってしまったので修復しないと。安全に無理をせずにを今一度再確認した練習でした。

On 9/16, I practiced at Yuigahama. I thought the waves would be too high for me because a typhoon was near, and the next day I practiced at Zaimokuza where the waves would be lower. I had decided to practice only for an hour, so I was on my way back to land when I fell forward and parried. I let go of my board and got caught in the wave. I felt pain in my leg and cut my foot with a fin. Fortunately, it was a minor injury, but I was horrified. I went back home and practiced how to deal with paring and learned that there are soft fins available. I also cut my wetsuit a little, so I had to repair it. It was a practice session that reaffirmed for me once again to be safe and take it easy.

22/08/20 : 朝練　

まずは練習ということで週末には材木座海岸に朝練に通っていました。逗子海岸はなかなか波が立たないのですが、ここは小さな波があり初心者にはもってこいとの事。僕は海水浴が始まる9時前まで練習。しかし、それがまず板が浮かない。パドリングが進まない。ショートボードなので波待ち練習もフラフラ。波に乗るなんて100年後かとい感じです。でもここは砂地なので何度落ちても安心でした。毎週通うようになると少しづつ波待ちやパドリングができるようになってきました。一人だけの時間、なんか楽しいのです。できないことが少しだけできて無理せずのんびりと上達しようと思います。あっ、自分にルールを決めました。まずは人が少ない場所を選んで。疲れたら無理しない。足がつかない沖には行かないです。さて、さて、練習練習です。

First of all, I went to Zaimokuza Beach on weekends for morning practice. Zushi Beach is not so easy to surf, but this beach has small waves and is good for beginners. I practiced until 9:00, just before the beach opened for swimming. But the first thing I noticed was that my board did not float. I couldn't paddle well. I was dizzy when I practiced waiting for waves because of my short board. I felt like it would be a hundred years before I could ride a wave. But this place is sandy, so I felt safe no matter how many times I fell off. As I started coming here every week, I started to learn how to wait for waves and paddle a little bit. It's fun to spend time alone. I can do a little bit of what I can't do, and I'm trying to improve at a leisurely pace without overdoing it. Oh, I set a rule for myself. First, choose a place with few people. If you get tired, don't push yourself. I won't go offshore where I can't get my feet on the water. Now, now, practice practice practice.

22/08/06 : サーフィン初心者講習

まずは基本を知らないと、ということで、妻と江の島のサーフィン初心者講習へ。立ち方を浜辺で教わり、何度か海でトライします。幾度となくドボンしながらもなんとか最後に立てました。気持ちよかった。しかしこの板はとっても乗りやすいとの事でした（これで乗れなかったら諦めてねとの事）。家の板とは違いとても長かったです。色々な長さがあるなと思っていましたが、こうも違うのかと思ったのは後日。しかしまずは扉を叩いてよかったなと思います。ヘトヘトになりながら江の島のお刺身定食を堪能して帰宅となりました。そんな今回は「たまには二人でサーフィンを」でした。

First, I had to know the basics, so my wife and I went to a beginner surfing lesson at Enoshima. We learned how to stand up on the beach and tried several times in the ocean. We managed to stand up at the end, even though we drowned many times. It felt good. But he told me that this board was very easy to ride (if you can't ride this board, give up). Unlike the board at home, it was very long. I thought there were many different lengths, but it was not until later that I realized how different they were. But first of all, I am glad I knocked on the door. I was exhausted and went home after enjoying a sashimi set meal at Enoshima. This time, it was "surfing together once in a while.

22/08/01 : おにいサーフィンする？

久しぶりに弟からの着信。電話にでると「おにいサーフィンする？」の第一声だった。聞くと急に東京に引っ越すそうで、そうなるとサーフィンをする機会が減るので海の近くに住む僕に板を譲ってくれるとの電話だった。丁度SUPを買おうと思っていた僕にとっては嬉しい話でもちろん譲ってもらう事に。そういえば昔、弟に連れられて日本海の荒波で初めてのサーフィンをした時には、これは死ぬなと思い二度とサーフィンはしないと決めていたのだがこう海の近くにいて浜辺からみんなが楽しそうにしているのを見ていると、あの恐怖の時間も薄れるものである。そして今一度挑戦してみようかと思ったのである。こうしてサーフィン一式が我が家にやって来た。一通り道具の説明を聞き、何はともあれ実践ということで、まずは初心者講習を受けに江の島のサーフスクールに向かった。

I received a call from my brother after a long time. When I picked up the phone, the first voice was, "Do you want to go surfing?" I asked him if he was going to move to Tokyo suddenly. I asked him about it, and he told me that he was suddenly moving to Tokyo, which meant he would have less chance to surf, so he was offering me, who lives near the ocean, a board. As I was just thinking of buying a SUP, I was happy to hear this and of course I agreed to take it. I had thought I was going to die when my brother took me surfing for the first time in the rough waves of the Sea of Japan, and I had decided never to surf again. I decided to give it another try. Thus, a set of surfing equipment arrived at our house. After listening to the explanation of the equipment, we headed to a surf school in Enoshima to take a beginner's class.